Our trip to Gwalior is one of those holidays that remains etched in your memory forever. It was fun, full of unexpected surprises and nonstop laughter thanks to a friend who joined us on this trip. We took this trip when we were still working full time in our respective corporate jobs and only had a long weekend (Friday, Saturday and Sunday). Plus, we were on a budget and had planned some creative ways to cut costs, but at the same time, we didn’t want to compromise on luxury.
Like with all our other travels, we had everything planned but life doesn’t always play ball. The craziness started at Delhi airport when Indigo announced that our flight was delayed. We knew that all our plans for Day 1 were going to go out of the window and we decided to take things as they come. We headed to the bar at the airport and truly started the holiday with more than a couple of beers.
Gwalior is a treasure trove of unique architectural wonders, museums and wildlife. A person can easily spend a week here exploring. However, since we had only two days, we had to prioritize what we wanted to experience. We definitely didn’t want to miss out on the essentials like Gwalior Fort or the Jai Villas Palace.
While researching Gwalior, we had been intrigued by this trio of temples on the outskirts of Gwalior and decided that on our second day, we will visit them. And after visiting these temples, we can safely say that if you want to make your trip to Gwalior truly memorable, then plan a trip to Bateshwar, Padavali and Mitaoli. These villages are located about an hour’s drive from Gwalior city and hold some of the most intriguing and beautiful temples that you will ever see.
Plan Your Day Trip
From Gwalior you can hire a taxi and a round trip to Bateshwar, Maitaoli and Padavali will cost you around 2000 rupees. If you plan to book an Ola or Uber, opt for the outstation roundtrip option. It takes about four to five hours complete the sightseeing and return to Gwalior city. You can either plan an early breakfast and return to the city by lunch or alternatively you can stop at one of the dhabhas on the way.
The landscape is picturesque and mostly consists of fields. Away from the hustle and bustle of the city, the drive is serene.
Bateshwar Group Of Temples
Start your day at the Bateshwar Group of temples. This architectural arcadia will get your imagination running wild. After all, where else in India will you find 200 temples of different sizes and shapes in one place. Unlike most temple sites in India which are focused around main temple structure, Bateshwar stands out. This is the only place where you will find so many temples together without a central main temple.
The temple complex itself is beautiful. Being away from the city, it is a peaceful place with an abundance of peacocks and greenery. You can walk through the temple complex and see the various carvings on the walls telling stories from Indian Mythology.
These temples were built between the 9th and 11th century by the Gujar Parihanra dynasty and you will find two distinct designs. While most of the temples are the Shikhara style temples, the older smaller temples are square.
Bateshwar also shares an interesting history with the dacoits of Chambal. The temples were ruined during an earthquake in the 14th century and eventually became the stronghold of the dacoits. Later the archaeological society of India took the help of Daku Nirbhay Singh often known as the Last Lion of Chambal to restore the temples.
Padavli Fort And Temple
From Bateshwar, you can head to Padavali which is hardly a 15-minute drive. Padavali is a fortress built in the 18th century by the Jat Ranas rulers of Dhaulpur. The fortress was built around an ancient Shiva Temple (estimated to have been built around 8th-10th century AD). The temple lay in ruins when the Jat Rana rulers decided to build the fortress and used pieces of the temple to build the walls of the fort. As a result, when you walk around the fort, you will see the exquisite carvings similar to the temple on some parts of the walls.
The fortress and the temple were discovered in 2005 as a result of excavation by the Archaeological Survey of India. The archeological work and restoration is still ongoing. We hope to see the temple reconstructed to its full glory soon. The main gazebo at the entrance has some beautiful carvings depicting Panchatantra tales and Ramayana.
Mitaoli Or The Chausath Yoginis Temple
And finally head to Mitaoli and visit the Chausath (sixty-four) Yogini temple. Located on a hill, it offers unhindered views of the gorgeous Narmada River Valley below. This temple is known for its unique circular architecture and flat roof. Its also hypatheral, meaning its open to the skies. This is a common feature in the temples dedicated to the Chausath Yoginis cult as it was believed that the yoginis could fly.
The temple was built in the 11th century and resides in an earthquake prone zone. Historians believe that the design of the temple is likely to have ensured that the temple structure was able to withstand the various earthquakes has still remained intact.
Don’t be surprised at the striking resemblance of the temple to India’s own house of democracy – The Parliament Buidi. However, there is no real proof that the temple inspired the architecture of the Parliament of India.
Inside the temple, you will find a smaller circular structure which contains a unique Shivling . Take a walk around the outer circle of the temple and check you the statues of the yoginis. Incidentally, there are only 11 temples dedicated to this cult that are still surviving.
Once you have had your fill of these amazing architectural wonders, head back to the city.
